No skin care category has experienced more of a glow-up recently than toners, and their resurgence may have you wondering: What does toner do, exactly? Perhaps you remember the bottle of blue stuff you used in middle school that smelled like alcohol and left your face dry and stinging. Today’s toners are nothing like that.
Those old-school versions—astringents that strip your skin—have been replaced by gentler, more sophisticated formulas that offer a bunch of potential benefits. “Toners went through a bad era,” Mona Gohara, MD, associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale School of Medicine, tells SELF. “Now that people understand that they’re no longer harsh and can actually be very effective, they’ve regained popularity.”
So back to your question: What’s the point of adding a toner to your routine? And, more importantly, do you actually need to use one—or is this a classic case of overblown skin care hype? Here, dermatologists answer those questions (and more) to help you determine if a toner is worth trying.
What is a toner?
Facial toners are simply liquid, water-based solutions that deliver particular skin benefits, Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, tells SELF. The astringent, drying, alcohol-based formulas of the past were meant for people with very oily skin, Dr. Gohara says. (Witch hazel was a common primary ingredient.) They were effective in the sense that they did zap excess oil, but they were also dehydrating and compromised your skin barrier in the process, she notes.
But again, that’s no longer the case. Advancements in skin care science have led to more nuanced and innovative formulations, Geeta Yadav, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of FACET Dermatology in Toronto, tells SELF. (It’s also worth noting that almost all of the new toners on the block are alcohol-free). You can now find a variety of unique options tailored to nearly any and every skin type and concern. To that point…
What are the benefits of using a toner?
It depends on which one you choose. Just like with serums and moisturizers, different toners offer different benefits. There are hydrating options with humectants (which attract water to and trap it in your skin) like hyaluronic acid, soothing ones with aloe vera and other anti-inflammatory ingredients, and smoothing types that contain chemical exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids, Dr. Murphy-Rose explains. You can also find brightening bottles with antioxidants, Dr. Gohara says. Long story short, no matter your skin type or concern, there’s a toner that will work for you.
Is toner really necessary?
And now, the answer we’ve all been waiting for (drumroll, please): in a word, no. All of the doctors we spoke with were quick to underscore that toner definitely doesn’t qualify as a skin care necessity in the same way, say, sunscreen does. It’s also not meant to replace your serum or moisturizer. Rather, toners are the proverbial cherry on top of an ice cream sundae—a nice addition, but not a must-have.
“If you have the time and money to spend on an extra product, then by all means incorporate one into your skin care routine,” Dr. Murphy-Rose says. They can definitely provide some benefits, so if you want to try one, go for it.
Who should use toner?
If you do decide to jump on the toner train, again, there are options out there for every skin issue (more on those specifics below). And because they’re lightweight and typically water-based, they’re compatible with most skin types. “Modern formulas are easily absorbed and aren’t going to make you look greasy or dry,” Dr. Gohara explains.
That being said, if you’re happy with your skin and in more of a “maintenance” era, you can probably skip toner. But if you’re actively trying to solve a problem—like excessive dryness or clogged pores—or if you generally feel like you need a little more hydration or exfoliation, that’s a good time to incorporate one, she advises. Because toners are so thin, they tend to layer nicely underneath other formulas; you get an extra boost of active ingredients without making your face feel like it’s globbed up with tons of products, Dr. Yadav notes.
How do you pick the right toner?
Just like choosing any other type of product, you want to start by considering your skin concerns. Dealing with dryness? Dr. Gohara says that hydrating formulas with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin are great to use underneath your serum and/or moisturizer. “They act like a protective water blanket, adding an extra layer of hydration,” she explains.
If you have oily or acne-prone skin, she recommends choosing one with salicylic acid; a beta-hydroxy acid that helps dissolve oil, clear blackheads and whiteheads, and ward off breakouts to begin with. And if you’re worried about irritation, remember: Today’s toners are not nearly as stripping as those of yesteryear. In fact, they can be very beneficial for anyone struggling with breakouts, especially because they’re non-occlusive and won’t clog pores, Dr. Murphy-Rose says.
If you’re looking for smooth results, formulas with AHAs (like lactic acid and glycolic acid) are the way to go, dissolving dead cells to improve both texture and tone, Dr. Gohara notes. Have sensitive skin? ”Soothing” or “calming” varieties with ingredients such as aloe or cica are ideal, says Dr. Murphy-Rose. If you don’t have any specific concerns but still want to try a toner, consider one with antioxidants, like derm-darling vitamin C. This can help protect your skin against environmental damage (something that everyone can benefit from), and also deliver some brightening benefits, Dr. Gohara points out.
How do you use a toner?
The golden rule: It should be the first product you put on post-cleansing. (FYI, you always want to apply formulas from thinnest to thickest, to ensure they absorb properly, Dr. Murphy-Rose explains.) Most toners can be used morning and/or night; the experts we spoke with suggest deferring to the directions on the particular product you’re using when it comes to frequency.
As far as your application method goes, you have two options. There’s the traditional route—squirting it onto a cotton pad or cotton ball and swiping it across your skin. This method ensures more even and complete coverage, Dr. Yadav says. If you’re using an exfoliating formula, start at the center of your face, moving the pad in circular motions toward the outside. (The middle of your face has the highest concentration of oil glands, so that’s usually where you need the most exfoliating benefits.) FYI: Pre-soaked toner pads are also a thing, and Dr. Murphy-Rose notes that they’re extremely convenient and easy to use.
Alternatively, you can dab some face toner on your (clean) fingertips and gently pat or press it into your skin, Dr. Yadav says. Particularly if you have dry skin and you’re using a hydrating formula, make sure that you apply serum and/or moisturizer right after, to lock in the hydration you just added, Dr. Gohara suggests.
The takeaway on toners: Today’s iterations are a far cry from their antiquated counterparts. There’s no shortage of formulas to choose from, and they can be a great way to amp your routine if you feel like your current product lineup isn’t quite cutting it. But if you’re satisfied with the state of your skin and don’t have the time, money, or mental energy to add another step? It’s more than fine to swipe left on toner.
Related:
Can You Moisturize Your Face Too Much? Does Applying Vitamin C at Night Do Anything for Your Skin? What to Know About Peptides, the Retinol Alternative Dermatologists Love
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